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First-Timer · Guide

Your first loc install — what to expect, what to bring, what it actually costs.

10 MIN READ · MAY 2026

Six to eight hours. Sometimes ten. The first install sets up the next decade of your hair. Here's the honest breakdown.

The night before

Your loctician will tell you to come with hair that's clean and dry. They mean it. Come with hair that was washed within the last 24 hours, completely air-dried, and product-free. No leave-in conditioner, no oils, no edge control. Anything on the strand interferes with the install.

If you have very curly or kinky hair (4b-4c), some stylists will ask you to come with hair blow-dried straight. Confirm with yours.

What to bring

What happens in the chair

  1. Wash + clarify (30-45 min). Even if you came with clean hair, your loctician will do a clarifying wash to remove anything you missed. Some skip this if you really came clean.
  2. Sectioning + parting (45-90 min). This is the slowest part and the most important. The parting pattern your loctician chooses will define your hairstyle for the next 5-10 years. Don't rush them.
  3. The install method (4-7 hours). Two-strand twist, comb coil, interlock, or braid method. Each takes different time. Ask your loctician what method they're using and why — a good one will explain.
  4. Drying + finishing (45-60 min). Sit under the hooded dryer until completely dry. Wet locs unravel. Then your loctician finishes the edges, applies a light oil to the scalp, and you're done.

What it actually costs in 2026

This depends on your hair length, density, and the method chosen. Real Houston master prices:

Tip 15-25% on top. Master locticians who spent 8 hours on your head earned every dollar. A $400 install with a 20% tip = $80 tip, total $480.

The first 30 days after

This is where most people mess up. Your locs are new and they will look frizzy, fluffy, and slightly unraveled within a week. That's normal. Don't try to "fix" them at home. You'll only damage them.

The first retwist

Book it before you leave the install chair. 4-6 weeks out. This is when your locs start to mature, and skipping this appointment is the #1 cause of locs that go bad in year one.

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One last thing

Locs are a 5-10 year commitment, not a haircut. The first install isn't the end — it's the start. Pick a loctician you can build a relationship with. Master locticians who've been at this for 8+ years will still be there when your locs reach maturity. They'll know your hair better than you do.